Hotel Pie de la Sierra on a hillside north of the city offers space for RV parking.
We sat at the patio bar and watched a spectacular cloud show.
A mural (below) celebrates the art and history of the Purepecha people.
Sunday, April 29, 2012
Uruapan evening
March 13, 2012
Hotel Pie de la Sierra on a hillside north of the city offers space for RV parking.
Hotel Pie de la Sierra on a hillside north of the city offers space for RV parking.
Uruapan national park
March 13, 2012
It was a short trip but new turf for us. We checked into a hotel-cum-RV park and took a cab to Eduardo Ruiz Park. Conversion of the beautiful natural area surrounding the Cupatitzio River into a national park began in 1938. It is located right in the city of Uruapan (population ~300,000) and named for a previous owner of the property.
Waterfalls are numerous, interspersed with pretty pools.
Behind us is a curtain of water, flowing down a stone wall.
We bought trout from the park's fish farm.
Some high school students were surveying park visitors and we were willing subjects. This was not the first time we have encountered school kids set loose to gather responses from strangers.
Great park, a great oasis in the city. The water was an extraordinary colour and incredibly clear.
It was a short trip but new turf for us. We checked into a hotel-cum-RV park and took a cab to Eduardo Ruiz Park. Conversion of the beautiful natural area surrounding the Cupatitzio River into a national park began in 1938. It is located right in the city of Uruapan (population ~300,000) and named for a previous owner of the property.
Waterfalls are numerous, interspersed with pretty pools.
Behind us is a curtain of water, flowing down a stone wall.
We bought trout from the park's fish farm.
Some high school students were surveying park visitors and we were willing subjects. This was not the first time we have encountered school kids set loose to gather responses from strangers.
Great park, a great oasis in the city. The water was an extraordinary colour and incredibly clear.
Tuesday, April 24, 2012
Anniversary
March 11, 2012
Our long-ago decision to marry in March was premised on the preservation of summer. Jim reasoned that weekends in July or August were better spent outdoors, preferably sailing, and that he did not want anyone missing one of Newfoundland's rare fine days on our behalf. His views on summer weddings have not changed one iota since then.
An unexpected benefit of marrying in winter is that March is a wonderful time to travel where the climate is warm and we don't have to haul on heavy coats, boots, gloves and hats to go to our anniversary dinner. This year we celebrated at Restaurant Lupita in Patzcuaro, where we were surrounded by colourful walls displaying local artworks.
All pieces except the metal sculptures are made from 'found materials', in most cases incorporating inexpensive craft items such as woven mats and fans.
Our long-ago decision to marry in March was premised on the preservation of summer. Jim reasoned that weekends in July or August were better spent outdoors, preferably sailing, and that he did not want anyone missing one of Newfoundland's rare fine days on our behalf. His views on summer weddings have not changed one iota since then.
An unexpected benefit of marrying in winter is that March is a wonderful time to travel where the climate is warm and we don't have to haul on heavy coats, boots, gloves and hats to go to our anniversary dinner. This year we celebrated at Restaurant Lupita in Patzcuaro, where we were surrounded by colourful walls displaying local artworks.
All pieces except the metal sculptures are made from 'found materials', in most cases incorporating inexpensive craft items such as woven mats and fans.
Wonder where we'll be in 2013.
Weddings everywhere
March 10, 2012
The basilica was ready for a wedding and as we ate lunch a little cafe on the square I hoped the wedding party might pass by. I was caught off-guard when two petite flower girls emerged from inside the restaurant and were guided to a different church down the hill.
The basilica was ready for a wedding and as we ate lunch a little cafe on the square I hoped the wedding party might pass by. I was caught off-guard when two petite flower girls emerged from inside the restaurant and were guided to a different church down the hill.
Soon it became clear that the more prestigious wedding of the day was not at the basilica but at the yellow church (whose name I never learned). Elegantly clad guests arrived by taxi or struggled to find a parking space. A few paused for refreshments along the way. Another indication of the importance of this event was the unsettling presence of trucks of armed soldiers stationed outside. A shopkeeper told us it was rumoured that the governor of Jalisco state was attending. There had been a violent act by drug cartel members in Guadalajara the day before; hence, the high security. I mention this episode due to its rarity, contrary to the media image of Mexico as a place where one is constantly confronted by the threat of violence. We didn't want to be obvious in photographing the soldiers (is there a protocol?), so Jim took a picture of me with the military pickup at left.
At the Plaza Grande, another wedding party was taking photos.
Across the plaza, the traditional Danza de Viejitos, Dance of the Old Men. The group included individuals ranging in age from pre-schoolers to genuine old guys.
Yet another wedding party (all this was just one day) came from another ancient church as we moved through town.
This was a day of near misses. Four weddings and not a single good picture. I kept waiting for the bride to appear and join the woman in a deep turquoise gown, whom I thought must be the bridesmaid. Wrong! It was the bride herself and she eventually folded her full skirts into the front seat of a sub-compact car. Her attendants and other guests piled into the back of a pickup whose colour was perfectly coordinated with the bridal gown.
The only shot I like of this wedding is the groom and company in a black pickup that matched their tuxedos.
The Patzcuaro Basilica
March 10, 2012
We set out to amend a great oversight. In previous visits to Patzcuaro we had missed the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Our Lady of Health). This is a country where it's possible to become blasé about seeing yet another 16th century church, but we try not to give in.
The church was built by Vasco de Quiroga, a Spanish lawyer and judge who became the first bishop of Michoacan. His vision was the organization of indigenous people in a manner based on Thomas Moore's Utopia. He promoted the organization of small towns, each of which specialized in the production of a different craft, and operating on cooperative principles. The craft specialization exists to this day, so that you can visit the copper town, the pottery town, the woodcarving village and so on.
The church was filled with fresh flowers in preparation for a wedding.
The church yard was crowded with craft stalls and its plaza was ringed by small shops selling locally made goods.
We set out to amend a great oversight. In previous visits to Patzcuaro we had missed the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Our Lady of Health). This is a country where it's possible to become blasé about seeing yet another 16th century church, but we try not to give in.
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| The exterior, showing 19th century updates |
The church was filled with fresh flowers in preparation for a wedding.
The church yard was crowded with craft stalls and its plaza was ringed by small shops selling locally made goods.
 |
| Patzcuaro is a great places to buy textiles - and we did. |
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| I bought a sweater from this woman for about $15. |
Sunday, April 22, 2012
Beautiful libraries
March 2012
The public library in Patzcuaro -- Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra. The library is located in the former San Agustin Church, built in the 16th century. The mural is the work of Juan O'Gorman and depicts the history of the Michoacan region from pre-Hispanic times up to the 1910 revolution. The library is named after a heroine (or do we now use hero for women?) of the Mexican war of independence. The square next to the library is named in her honour and features a bronze statue of her.
The public library in Patzcuaro -- Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra. The library is located in the former San Agustin Church, built in the 16th century. The mural is the work of Juan O'Gorman and depicts the history of the Michoacan region from pre-Hispanic times up to the 1910 revolution. The library is named after a heroine (or do we now use hero for women?) of the Mexican war of independence. The square next to the library is named in her honour and features a bronze statue of her.
And, in Morelia, the university library.
The doorways of Patzcuaro
Mid-March 2012
Patzcuaro is a great walking town. As always in Mexico, you get many tantalizing glimpses through doorways and porticos.
Patzcuaro is a great walking town. As always in Mexico, you get many tantalizing glimpses through doorways and porticos.
Getting around
Most RVers learn to use local transit in Mexico. We don't have a tow car and using the RV to go sightseeing in villages and towns is impractical and often physically impossible. Even those who have a truck or car with them often choose to use buses for urban travel.
Our trip from Patzcuaro to Morelia is a good example of what is available in public transit. The distance involved is 50 km. We caught the 2nd Class bus by walking to the lakeshore highway (just down the street) and handing our money to a young guy with a clipboard. The medium-size bus took us on a quick ride north, discharging us at the southern edge of the city. Then we caught a combi (mini-bus) to the Centro.
Bus cost for two: 50 pesos ($4.00 Cdn) Combi: 12 pesos ($1.00)
The 2nd Class buses usually do relatively short trips between towns. They are smaller than the city buses we have in Canada, generally holding about 30-40 passengers. While some are modern and well appointed, others look old and battered but they always seem to get you there. And they are very cheap.
Combis or collectivos operate within cities and towns. They seem to be everywhere and can move in swarms. Sometimes they use designated bus stops but usually they are quite flexible about where they do pick-ups and drop-offs. The standard price in this area is 6 pesos, less than 50 cents Cdn.
The combis look like minivans. Inside there are bench seats in various configurations providing space for 12-14 people if you count the front seat. Passengers bring a surprising amount of baggage along with them and nobody seems to mind.
Combis display the major stops on their route by signs in their windows. You just wave down one that is heading to your destination. In some cities, the combis seem to be organized into clearly delineated routes and companies; in others it looks like a free-for-all.
Some cities use mid-sized buses similar to the 2nd class highway buses for urban transit. You have to wonder why Canadian municipalities don't use a variety of bus sizes instead of 50+ passenger behemoths that ride almost empty for much of the day.
On our return trip from Morelia to Patzcuaro we were too clever for our own good. We did not take careful note of where the bus dropped us when we arrived in Morelia. We hopped off and got straight into a combi to go downtown. So . . . at the tourist bureau we asked directions to the central bus terminal (thinking that must be where we had entered) and when we were ready to go home we took a combi to go there. I eventually realized we were going in the wrong direction based on the position of the sun, but couldn't figure out why it was wrong or what to do about it.
The terminal was a large impressive building resembling an airport terminal. It had ticket counters with staff in smart uniforms and computers to handle ticket sales. We found the right desk and were told a bus was leaving for Patzcuaro in 4 minutes. Jim gave our names and did the seat selection. The charge was a shocking 96 pesos -- about $8 for two, twice the price of the morning bus. We took our boarding passes and ran for the gate. There was a security check for parcels, though not a very thorough one.
Outside the door, large modern coaches were lined up with attendants in front of each. We presented our passes and were given a cold drink and a snack for the trip. The seats were the size of airline business class. They reclined and had full leg rests. The air conditioning was set at 24 C. A movie started as we left the station. We were so comfortable we slept much of the way.
Our trip from Patzcuaro to Morelia is a good example of what is available in public transit. The distance involved is 50 km. We caught the 2nd Class bus by walking to the lakeshore highway (just down the street) and handing our money to a young guy with a clipboard. The medium-size bus took us on a quick ride north, discharging us at the southern edge of the city. Then we caught a combi (mini-bus) to the Centro.
Bus cost for two: 50 pesos ($4.00 Cdn) Combi: 12 pesos ($1.00)
The 2nd Class buses usually do relatively short trips between towns. They are smaller than the city buses we have in Canada, generally holding about 30-40 passengers. While some are modern and well appointed, others look old and battered but they always seem to get you there. And they are very cheap.
 |
The combis look like minivans. Inside there are bench seats in various configurations providing space for 12-14 people if you count the front seat. Passengers bring a surprising amount of baggage along with them and nobody seems to mind.
Combis display the major stops on their route by signs in their windows. You just wave down one that is heading to your destination. In some cities, the combis seem to be organized into clearly delineated routes and companies; in others it looks like a free-for-all.
Some cities use mid-sized buses similar to the 2nd class highway buses for urban transit. You have to wonder why Canadian municipalities don't use a variety of bus sizes instead of 50+ passenger behemoths that ride almost empty for much of the day.
On our return trip from Morelia to Patzcuaro we were too clever for our own good. We did not take careful note of where the bus dropped us when we arrived in Morelia. We hopped off and got straight into a combi to go downtown. So . . . at the tourist bureau we asked directions to the central bus terminal (thinking that must be where we had entered) and when we were ready to go home we took a combi to go there. I eventually realized we were going in the wrong direction based on the position of the sun, but couldn't figure out why it was wrong or what to do about it.
The terminal was a large impressive building resembling an airport terminal. It had ticket counters with staff in smart uniforms and computers to handle ticket sales. We found the right desk and were told a bus was leaving for Patzcuaro in 4 minutes. Jim gave our names and did the seat selection. The charge was a shocking 96 pesos -- about $8 for two, twice the price of the morning bus. We took our boarding passes and ran for the gate. There was a security check for parcels, though not a very thorough one.
Outside the door, large modern coaches were lined up with attendants in front of each. We presented our passes and were given a cold drink and a snack for the trip. The seats were the size of airline business class. They reclined and had full leg rests. The air conditioning was set at 24 C. A movie started as we left the station. We were so comfortable we slept much of the way.
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| First Class Bus (but not the one we took) |
Tuesday, April 3, 2012
Cottonwood
A little explanatory note.
The blog got away from me in mid-March. I was already behind a week when I picked up a bug and was unwell for several days. This blog is meant to be a tribute to our time in Mexico and a souvenir for Jim and me of this country we have come to love so I decided to finish it no matter how late. The posts that come after this one were written after we returned to Newfoundland. In most cases I provide the date when the events described actually took place.
As I post this note in early April, Vagrant Van is being decommissioned at Rio Verde RV Park in Cottonwood, Arizona. We had a trouble-free trip from the Lake Chapala area up the Pacific Coast of Mexico. After crossing the border at Nogales we spent a few days in Tucson and then in Phoenix. In both cities we enjoyed the company and generous hospitality of friends old and new.
We have chosen a storage yard and expect to park the RV on Thursday, then leave Friday night to fly home. The mountains surrounding us glow with colour and we can't wait to do some exploring. Not sure if we'll have any time this week but there is next winter to look forward to.
The blog got away from me in mid-March. I was already behind a week when I picked up a bug and was unwell for several days. This blog is meant to be a tribute to our time in Mexico and a souvenir for Jim and me of this country we have come to love so I decided to finish it no matter how late. The posts that come after this one were written after we returned to Newfoundland. In most cases I provide the date when the events described actually took place.
As I post this note in early April, Vagrant Van is being decommissioned at Rio Verde RV Park in Cottonwood, Arizona. We had a trouble-free trip from the Lake Chapala area up the Pacific Coast of Mexico. After crossing the border at Nogales we spent a few days in Tucson and then in Phoenix. In both cities we enjoyed the company and generous hospitality of friends old and new.
We have chosen a storage yard and expect to park the RV on Thursday, then leave Friday night to fly home. The mountains surrounding us glow with colour and we can't wait to do some exploring. Not sure if we'll have any time this week but there is next winter to look forward to.
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