Showing posts with label Angahuan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Angahuan. Show all posts

Saturday, May 5, 2012

Indigenous style

March 14, 2012
In the course of our Mexican travels, it has not been unusual to see women dressed in a traditional fashion. Usually this would feature embroidered blouses and full skirts, often finished off with a shawl, variously called a serape or rebozo.  Older women may wear dark shades, but bright colours are common among all ages.

Angahuan is a small, rather isolated Purepecha village and we had heard that the women wore distinctive clothing.  The form their fashions took was a surprise; it was quite different from what we had seen previously.  


For me,the most striking part of the costume was the skirts.  They were full, below the knee, usually pleated and made from fabric which was often bright and shiny, like taffeta.  Over the skirt was an apron. Sometimes this looked utilitarian but frequently it was lacy or gauzy, perhaps what we would call a pinafore. With the skirt they wore a blouse (possibly pleated or in a floral pattern) and always a shawl. The shawl may be used as a head covering, especially on cold mornings, and often there will be a baby tucked inside.  Girls seemed to take on the shawl in their young teens.  The women's hair was braided and tied at the ends and sometimes also near the start of the braid.
This is the tail end of a very long line of women leading to an office (government?  health?) in the village. 


Good view here of the narrow pleats and also the hair braids.

I had an ethical dilemma in my desire to capture photos of the clothing.  Ordinarily I would not take someone's picture without asking permission.  When we spend time in a town we naturally come into contact with residents in the markets and on the streets.  It is a simple matter to ask by words or gestures if we may take a photo.  In this case we were driving through the town with no real interaction with the people.  I thought it would be terribly rude to stick the camera out the window and snap away.  So . . . not a lot of pictures.

A market in the plaza sold all the fancy fabrics for skirts and aprons.


Later in the afternoon we drove through a mountain village where all the rebozos were the same beautiful blue.

Angahuan and area

March 14, 2012
After our exploration of the encased church we had a special treat -- a lunch of blue tortillas with our choice of fillings.  There was a moment when I noticed that the women operating this stall had obviously arrived by truck.  I wondered why the option of driving in was not mentioned in any of the tourist literature we had read.  On the other had, approaching on foot through the woods had made quite an impact.  And the recommended road was about the worst we had ever driven.

Notice the metate or grinding stone.
The hike back up to the RV was a little more challenging than coming down, but still only took an hour.  (By the way, I suspect Lonely Planet was wrong is saying it was 2.8 miles. More likely 2.8 km.)

Along the way we saw lupins, just like those in our garden at home, sharing space with cacti -- none of which grace our property back home.


Vagrant Van was waiting for us at the tourist parking area and we took advantage of one of the fringe benefits of travelling by RV.  We were hot and sticky and our legs were black where the volcanic dust had stuck to the sunscreen.  No problem.  We had our shower with us so were squeaky clean before moving on!

The church that was swallowed by a volcano

March 14, 2012
Mexico is covered with mountains whose distinctive shape reveals their volcanic origin. Some of them have been dormant for eons while others still smoulder.


In 1943 the Paricutin volcano erupted in an agricultural region north of Uruapan.  The progression of the lava was slow, but over the next two years the villages of  San Juan Parangaricutiro and San Salvador Paricutín eventually had to be abandoned.  Visitors today travel to tiny Angahuan, which was saved due to its location high above the valley where the lava flowed.  From there it is possible to reach the lava fields on foot or on horseback.
The church at centre is our destination.
It was an easy downhill hike through a network of paths and unpaved roads, leading us through woods and past wildflowers.  As the route levelled out we encountered the hard black lava.  Soon the one remaining church steeple could be seen standing proud. 


Access was via primitive paths worn in the lava.  We climbed all around this extraordinary site.

The main altar was spared.  Each day fresh flowers appear and there are often small offerings and messages left at the base.
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In some areas, flowers and shrubs are starting to take over.















We've admired dozens of beautiful, well-maintained churches all over Mexico.  None of our other visits was quite as moving as the experience of climbing through these ruins.









For more information on the lost San Juan church, see
http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/1116-paricut%C3%ADn-the-volcano-michoac%C3%A1n