Arizona or bust

March 21, 2012
Time to start our ~2500 km trek north to Arizona, where we will leave the RV for the off-season.  It was good to spend a final non-travelling week at Hacienda Contreras in the company of several couples we had met over the past few years.  This park has become a real magnet for Canadians, most of whom come from BC or Ontario, but this week we also had Nova Scotia and Saskatachewan represented.  Americans are fewer in number, here in the interior of Mexico, and probably in most areas except the northwest.

We weren't able to adopt a kitten to take with us.  Instead left this stone cat at Hacienda Contreras in hopes that Barb and Sal won't forget their first (and so far only) Newfoundland visitors.

As we started our trip out of the country, every encounter took on special meaning.  We stopped at a grocery store on the highway and I ran inside to get the usual staples -- milk, yoghurt (Mexican is best), bolillos (crusty rolls), local cheese, Squirt (my favourite soft drink to mix with tequila), frozen treats (more fruit than cream).  The young man working there had some English and with my bit of Spanish we had a real conversation.  Three years ago I would have been reluctant to enter the store.  Now, with enough Spanish to confidently greet the shopkeeper, ask for foods by name and understand the price, it was a breeze.  I also learned long ago that Mexican retailers don't bite.

Our route took us through the berry-producing area on the south shore of Lake Chapala.  Berries were 50 pesos ($4) for three 1-litre containers.  I wanted one each of raspberries, blackberries and strawberries, but there was a slight problem.  The raspberries weren't at their best.  The old man at the stall helped me choose a tub where the berries were not too mushy.  I paid him and then, as if to ensure that I was completely satisfied with my purchase, he thrust an extra litre of blackberries into the bag.  So sweet -- both him and the berries.

The first day's distance was fairly modest and we had a quick stop at Roca Azul to catch up on friends at the resort and note that the jacaranda tree was in full bloom.

Now, all we had to do was point the GPS to Etzatlan, weave our way through a web of secondary highways, and we'd be there in a couple of hours . . .

Uphill to Contreras

Feb 26, 2012

With only a few weeks left in this part of Mexico we begin a short (and slow) journey south of Lake Chapala.  First, we reverse our initial trip of the season and return to the mountains overlooking Lake Chapala.  Happily, the berry stands are still in operation and we once again could choose from luscious strawberries (fresas), raspberries (frambuesas) and blackberries (zarzamoras).

We have taken this drive to and from the lakeshore numerous times but never have I been able to capture the full impact of the view over the lake.  I keep trying, here and everywhere we drive, to snap pictures from the window of the moving vehicle (typically the roads are too narrow to contemplate pulling over) but the results are always less than I hope for.  Trust me, the view is spectacular.

At Hacienda Contreras we received warm greetings from owners Barb and Sal, several Canadian RV friends . . . and from the kitties, who offered a complementary tire inspection.

Down to Lago Chapala

After 10 days at Hacienda Contreras we took a short drive down the mountain and along the south shore of Lake Chapala.  As soon as we reached the lakeshore, the (narrow) road was lined with vendors selling just-picked berries.  We were shocked at the price increase since last year.  Can you imagine -- 20 pesos a litre, about $1.50.  I was somewhat placated by the offer of three litres for 50 pesos, which also meant I did not have to choose between strawberries, raspberries and blackberries.  For the record, the raspberries were tops.  Darn, should have taken a picture, they all looked so good!

Berries are one of the special treats we savour during our winters in Mexico.  The area around Lake Chapala produces vast quantities of berries for export.  Shortly before leaving home I spotted a tiny container of Driscoll's raspberries at Sobey's for about the same prize as the three liters I bought on the roadside.  The label said they were from Mexico, so they probably came from one of Driscoll's greenhouses right around here.

We made a brief stop in tiny San Luis Soyatlan where we always get great vegetables at a little market just at the edge of town.  I had to wait in line behind a group of young working men who apparently were taking a break and all having what seemed to be the special of the day.  It was a concoction of bottled juice, with various fresh fruits blended in and seasoned with chili powder.  Fresh fruit juices and chopped fruits served in plastic tubs or bags are popular snacks readily available in the markets and plazas -- how healthy is that?

I'm fond of this produce stall for its good selection but it's also convenient as the street widens outside the village centre.  Inside the town limit the streets are so narrow we'd be a major obstruction.  Last year we found ourselves behind a funeral procession.  The casket was in a van or SUV (flowers visible on top) and the mourners followed on foot to the church.

We visited the church on another occasion and were surprised at its modern interior. Rather plain pews but a marble floor.